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While that is a summary of the road travel, it is not, of course, a summary of trip. One of the first questions I'm often asked is, "Why a trip to Scotland? You Scottish?" As far as I know, I have no Scots blood, although I am 1/4 Welsh (and therefore Celtic), which I have used to explain my excessive split personalities -- German sense of order and Welsh passion. But several years ago I got coerced into learning the bagpipes, and inevitably got immersed into Scottish culture and history ( I think Scottish "culture" and "history" are really the same thing). I'm also a Presbyterian, which had one of it's roots in Scotland, so I've seen the culture from that side.

A component of the Scottish adventure was the expected romanticism -- the poems and paintings of the Romantics extolled these regions. And how about that lone bagpiper/shepherd and his dog on the misty beinn (hillside), or the quaint homesteads and exotic folk of 40's English movies.

And I must say I was personally fulfilled in nearly all my expectations. The countryside and villages of Northern England and Scotland are romantic, rivaling West Virginia, Tennessee, Vermont and New Hampshire. We saw Scotland in sun, in mist, and in rain. I felt the country more than anywhere I've traveled in the United States (with the possible exception of a camping trip to the New Jersey pine barrens in the early 1970's). You can truly understand why there is such a passionate love for this land and its history, even by first and second generation emigrants. And the people are truly gracious and friendly, if at times unintelligible.

Hire shop (rental dealer) just around corner from the rail station. Picked up two Honda 650 CC "touring" bikes; mine had only 200 kilometers on the odometer. Folks at HGB Motorcycles very helpful in picking out bikes appropriate for our needs, and giving directions for heading north. Started out for Redcar, our first evening's stop, somewhat apprehensive about left side driving and roundabouts (traffic circles) for which I had received prior warning. Went but a few blocks when first roundabout looms -- negotiated it O.K., somehow, and confidence lifts.

We find our way to the M25 London Orbital (beltway), then the A1 to "The North". Sharon leads much of the way. The A1 is a dual carriageway (highway), with sections that are motorways (expressways). Lots of traffic! Everyone seems to be going faster that we would here with similar traffic conditions, but maybe it was just that we were unused to the bikes, left side driving, and English habits. Began to get used to roundabouts, but still unsure of the "rules" for getting through one safely. Signaling was a particular problem; I never (for the entire trip) learned that I had to shut the turn signals off manually (the Harleys' shut off automatically; you would have thought the Japanese also could have figured out how to do this).

Arrived in Redcar around 7 p.m. and spent considerable time wandering aimlessly around as Sharon tried to remember where Kevin lived. Finally she called, but don't ever claim that it is just a man-thing never to stop and seek directions.

Redcar is a seaside city, just to the south of Middlesbrough and Newcastle Upon Tyne, perhaps 150 miles south of Edinburgh and about 70 miles from the England/Scotland border. It is a mainly industrial area. We stayed two nights with Kevin Luxmore, a friend of Sharon's, and a most amiable host. He served a good supper, including wine -- Sharon claims I became a bit tipsy, I won't know; then we went to the local pub for a pint. After 11 PM closing I went off to bed (my explanation was that I was exhausted since I'd had only 2 hours sleep since leaving New York), and Sharon stayed up a bit longer to renew an old friendship.

Got fish and chips takeout for supper from a chip shop or "chippy," then again to the local pub for a pint before to bed, tired but well satisfied.

Set off about 10 am, and it shortly starts to rain. Stop for gas, and for the first time put on our rain gear. A third friend of theirs, who was to join us, decides not to because of the rain. Rain mostly stops after ½ hour or so, but day continues misty, with occasional heavier stuff. We keep rain gear on all day.

More single track road as we cross a second mountain. Sheep and goats everywhere. Sheep barely note your passing, some dozing in the roadway, but goats are more aggressive and attacked Sharon twice. Road frequently travels along ridges with fairly steep drop offs, sharp curves and no guardrails -- I'm a bit acrophobic at times. But Sharon negotiates roads like a pro; the prior day's mishaps are forgotten. Light rain, fog and wind as we cross the higher passes added to the adventure and sense of timelessness. Are we in legendary Britain or what!

The proprietor recommends taking the A713 north to Ayr instead of continuing along the coast on the A75 and A77. We had already considered this, since we were behind schedule. The ride was pleasant, through modest hills and forests, along lochs (lakes), good road and light traffic. The rain had mostly stopped, although we did don our rain gear.

After refreshing, we went into the center of town for dinner, had an adequate Indian meal, and chatting a bit with four bikers (all with sport bikes) from New Castle away from their wives for the weekend. Fort William is clearly a town catering to tourists. But that's O.K. We're tourists, and we needed a bit of catering.

Another single track road leads from the terminal northeast to central Skye. Long lines of cars following caravans. Wish we had been one of the first to get off the ferry, not the last.

Our goal today is to get to Stirling, 30 miles or so west of Edinburgh. If all goes well, we'll spend two nights there, taking the train into Edinburgh on Tuesday. We have a relatively easy trip across the highlands into the lowlands of eastern Scotland on the A86 and A9. Good road all the way, and not all that much traffic until we get near to Perth.

Took the train to Edinburgh. Edinburgh festival in full swing. Lots of tourists and street performers, etc. Got ourselves into the full tourist mode. First stop, picked up tickets for the Edinburgh Tattoo, then on to Edinburgh Castle. Took the castle tour. Then strolled the streets of the old city.

Then we wandered the streets, watching street performers. Took a bus tour, which was more important to our feet than to our understanding of Edinburgh. Then had supper at a non-pretentious but very good French restaurant (perhaps our best meal of the trip), then on to the Tattoo.

We then rushed to get the last train back to Stirling. When we got to the bed and breakfast, found it locked (proprietor forgot we were returning late). Took a bit to rouse him, but in the end we didn't have to sleep on the doorstep.

We're winding down and returning home, now. Took the M9 north and east toward Edinburgh, then the A720 around the city to the A7 south toward Galashiels. Crossed the Moorfoot Hills. Nice rural country. Started to rain heavy enough to put on rain gear. Joined the A68 through Jedburgh. Then crossed the Scotland/England border at the Chevoit Hills and stopped for a photo-op. Searched for Hadrian's Wall west of Newcastle Upon Tyne. And while this had been one of my initial targeted "sites" for the trip, when I found it was going to cost something to visit (none of the historic sites in Great Britain seem to be free), and required traveling more out of our way than I thought reasonable, we (more accurately, I) abandoned the quest. I was traveled out!

After relaxing a bit, we decide to go to Saltburn-By-The-Sea for a "Pub Meal." I was a bit apprehensive after she reminded me that the return required negotiating again the infamous hairpin curve. But I decided to go, since it appeared to be my only chance at getting steak and kidney pie, or a similar highlight of English cuisine. We had a pleasant meal, of steak and mushroom pie (close enough). Then back to Redcar. Sharon makes the curve out of town smooth as silk -- she's become a real pro. I start through and the bike stalls -- forgot to downshift to first (the Harley would have made it in second without a whimper). There I was, trying to start the bike while keeping it from rolling back on a hill that seemed close to 45 degrees, not dropping it, with cars close on my tail, my visor fogged over, and (worst of all) two girls on the adjacent sidewalk laughing. I needed more appendages to control everything. But, I must say, I kept my cool, and pulled out as gracefully as one can in this situation.

Sharon has her own bedroom at Kevin's for the first time in a week. Her last words as she turns in are, "Maybe I'll get a good nights sleep at last."

Our objective is to get to Ruislip Manor, drop off the bikes, and get to Heathrow in time to catch my 6:30 p.m. flight to JFK. We get started a bit later than I would have like, but we should still have plenty of time. Traffic hasn't improved on the A1, but I think we are both a bit more comfortable and understanding of English driving habits. While I still don't fully understand the rules of roundabouts, I seem to be fairly successful in their negotiation. Sharon has given up on me ever promptly to turn off my turn signals. While not quite sure how to get back to the motorcycle hire shop, we manage to get there without serious error. My bike, on return, has had about 2200 kilometers added. No damage to either bike is apparent. We get back to Heathrow about an hour before my scheduled flight time, say our goodbyes, still pretty much on good terms with each other. While my flight is delayed about an hour because of a minor engine problem, its arrival at JFK is only about a hour late, and Richard meets me without incident. While the flight-time is 9 hours, arrive at JFK about 11 PM EDT. Home in a little over an hour, and to bed.

Except for taking some film to the photoshop, sleep all day.